Exploring London's Soho Neighborhood
By Andrew Collins

It may just be the most expensive city in the world, especially for travelers from the United States and Canada, but there's no denying that London makes for an enchanting and exciting big-city getaway. Interestingly, the London neighborhood that most interests GLBT visitors, Soho, lacks any museums or formal attractions. But this colorful, slightly risque district abounds with festive gay bars, hip restaurants, offbeat shops, and arguably the best people-watching in Great Britain. Here's a look at where to eat, play, and stay in London's definitive Gay Village.

This neighborhood bounded by Oxford Street, Charing Cross Road, Shaftsbury Avenue, and Regent Street was laid out in the late 17th century and initially attracted mostly working-class immigrants. As adjacent areas became more desirable, Soho steadily declined in respectability, to the point that by the middle of the 19th century, the warren of crowded lanes had become overrun with brothels and music halls. This legacy would eventually secure Soho's place as the heart of London's West End theater scene - it remains a popular neighborhood for catching a musical. The London Theatre Guide's website (www.londontheatre.co.uk) is an excellent resource for finding out what's playing where and for booking tickets.

Soho's louche Victorian reputation carried well into the 20th century, when its gritty vibe began to attract a fair share of bohemian sorts and intellectuals. In the 1950s, it became the heart of the city's jazz scene. Leading rock and punk musicians performed in clubs and recorded in studios in Soho during subsequent decades. The neighborhood's freewheeling, countercultural attitude made it a naturally appealing hub for London's emerging gay community, and by the 1980s, Soho had begun to glow pink, especially along Old Compton Street, which remains the most queer-visible thoroughfare in the city.

In more recent years, Soho has continued developing an even stronger gay presence. On certain blocks, this 1-square-mile neighborhood can still feel a bit seedy, and on weekend nights, you can barely move among the throngs of tourists, locals, and suburbanites who crowd the narrow streets. But Soho is otherwise quite safe, and it's become increasingly trendy among foodies, artsy types, media moguls, fashionistas, and other West Enders.

Despite Soho's lack of attractions, it's adjacent to several neighborhoods with cultural cachet. To the west and southwest are ritzy Mayfair and St. James Park; just south is the city's vibrant Chinatown. And the literary Covent Garden, Strand, and Bloomsbury neighborhoods lie to the east. Soho has one of the most appealing small parks in the city, Soho Square, which is a must-see on warm days. It's surrounded by fashionable houses and offices, and when the sun is out, you'll see scads of "family" out lying or sitting cross-legged on the grass - it's a lovely place to picnic, cruise, and enjoy a little break from central London's sometimes intense crowds.

Dining is one of the Soho's leading draws. For light snacking, just stroll along Old Compton Street, and you'll discover a slew of gay-popular places serving espressos, sandwiches, and international fast-food. Among cafes, the Soho branch of the popular London franchise Patisserie Valerie is a good bet, with its addictive almond-frangipane tarts and fruit scones with butter. For a more substantial meal, Balans is a classic choice for dinner - it's in the very center of Soho's gay bar action, and the staff and crowd are good-hearted, lively, and chatty. The kitchen turns out commendable international fare at reasonable prices - try the Thai crab cakes with a honey-miso dipping sauce, or tapenade-crusted cod with crushed new potatoes and tomato-and-red-onion salad.
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