Milwaukee, Wisconsin
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Drive a couple of miles farther south, through the gay-bar district of Walker's Point, to reach what has become the city's most visible GLBT residential neighborhood, Bay View (aka "Gay View"), which not only has plenty of attractive old homes but also a lively commercial strip along South Kinnickinnic Avenue. Here you'll find several noteworthy cafes and shops, including the feminist/lesbian bookstore, Broad Vocabulary.

Milwaukee's dining scene is up-and-coming, but one restaurant, Sanford, has been a culinary wonder for years - typically creative fare here includes the char-grilled elk loin with cremini mushrooms, rutabaga dumplings, and a pear-and-red-wine sauce. The same owners also run a more casual bistro, Coquette Cafe, in a converted loft in the Historic Third Ward. An early catalyst of the Brady Street renaissance, Mimma's trattoria is owned by a woman who often treks back to Italy in search of new recipes - it's always a great bet for a romantic dinner. The Hi Hat Lounge is another favorite in this neighborhood - it's known for its terrific Sunday brunch and happy-hour martini specials. Also in this area, gay-popular Bosley on Brady serves inventive, elegantly crafted Key West-inspired cuisine.

A slick spot with cute waiters and stylish patrons to match, Sake Tumi is a trendy place serving contemporary Japanese and Korean fare - it's along downtown's bustling Milwaukee Street "restaurant row," which also includes such see-and-be-seen spots as Cubanitas (for modern Latin fare) and Zarletti (well-regarded for its sophisticated Italian cuisine).

In a vintage brick building in the Historic Third Ward, gay-popular Bella is a warm and inviting coffeehouse that's perfect for hanging out with a good book or munching on decadent desserts. In a vintage foundry just across the Milwaukee River, Alterra brews potent, flavorful coffee and serves light fare; there are several other branches around town, including a beautiful space set inside a converted pumping station near the lakeshore. A charming spot for lunch or dinner - and maybe some post-dining shopping - Barclay Gallery & Garden Cafe comprises a gallery selling whimsical crafts and artwork from more than 300 artisans, and a restaurant serving reasonably priced, globally inspired fare.

Steps from several of the gay bars of Walkers Point is the sophisticated and romantic Spanish tapas restaurant, Don Quijote, a good bet for hearty paella. Nearby Jacques is a cute creperie and French bistro that's perfect for a glass of wine and a spinach-roquefort crepe before venturing out to the bars. On the eastern edge of Walker's Point, in the city's small but lively Latin Quarter, La Perla serves delicious, authentic Mexican food. In warm weather, dine on the deck out back. Retro-funky Cafe Lulu is a good bet in the trendy Bay View neighborhood for eclectic, casual fare - burgers, falafel, Moroccan chicken sandwiches - and Sunday brunch.
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