Milwaukee, Wisconsin
By Andrew Collins

The largest city in a state that's long enjoyed a favorable political and social reputation among gays and lesbians, Milwaukee hugs the shoreline of Lake Michigan and lies just 90 miles east of the hip, GLBT-popular college town and capital city of Madison. Milwaukee has one of the most vibrant gay scenes in the Midwest, and also one of the friendliest. The city has been enjoying a notable renaissance of late, with once downcast neighborhoods seeing an infusion of new residents, who have fixed up historic homes and moved into snazzy new condos. Noteworthy restaurants, coffeehouses, galleries, and boutiques have followed, many of them developing loyal followings among local gay folks.

Low-keyed Milwaukee lies just under two hours north of Chicago by car, situated dramatically overlooking Lake Michigan. Historically, outsiders have been quick to associate Milwaukee with bowling, Laverne & Shirley, and kitschy German restaurants with dirndl-clad waitresses and bucket-size beer steins. While these stereotypes hold true to a certain extent, they overlook the degree to which the city has become significantly more sophisticated of late. For instance, Milwaukee has quietly emerged as one of the Midwest's leading centers of the visual and performing arts - with a highly acclaimed ballet and symphony, two opera companies, countless theaters, and a world-class art museum. Milwaukee also has dozens of lesbian and gay social and political groups, and the June PrideFest celebration ranks among one of the largest such gatherings anywhere.

This is terrific city for strolling. Downtown, you can walk along State Street through the impressive Theater District, or admire the dignified 19th-century cast-iron buildings that line Old World 3rd Street. Attractive promenades run along downtown's Milwaukee River, passing beside trendy restaurants and bars with waterfront terraces. River tour boats depart regularly from Pere Marquette Park, where concerts and events are staged.

The city's most celebrated attraction, the Milwaukee Art Museum, lies east of downtown along the pastoral lakefront (also a fine spot for wandering on foot, as well as such outdoor activities as bicycling and kayaking). The museum's Eero Saarinen-designed building made headlines in 2002 when celebrated Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava created a magnificent addition, which has become one of the Midwest's most talked about structures.

Venture north along Prospect Avenue to discover some of Milwaukee's most charming neighborhoods, including the Brady Street district, with its eclectic mix of quirky shops and restaurants. Nearby is a fine example of Edwardian architecture and decor, the Charles Allis Art Museum - especially notable here are the collections of Barbizon and Hudson River School paintings.

Head south of downtown to reach the Historic Third Ward, a patch of imposing 19th-century warehouses that's undergone a major gentrification and now contain restaurants, art galleries, and antiques shops, as well as the handsomely renovated Milwaukee Public Market. Billed as Milwaukee's "Off Broadway," the district is also home to several experimental theaters. A visual-arts highlight is the Eisner Museum of Advertising and Design, a cool exhibit space (with a great gift shop); it's affiliated with the Milwaukee Institute of Art & Design, whose students design many of the wares sold here.
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