
Prague, Czech Republic
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Few Old Town eateries have a more obviously gay following than Cafe
Cafe, a dapper, loud, fashionista-favored spot that's centrally located
but sufficiently far enough from the hordes near Charles Bridge. Grab a
seat at one of the giant windows overlooking the sidewalk, and linger over
a reasonably priced salad, sandwich, fruit tart, espresso, or cocktail.
Not far from here, Cafe Jungmann is a charming and affordable sidewalk
cafe on a quiet plaza behind the massive Bata shoe store on Wenceslas
Square, the commercial heart of New Town. Dine at one of the wooden tables
on the deck outside - you'll find a typical selection of salads, panini
sandwiches, and rich desserts.
Another noteworthy restaurant with a significant gay following is
Celebrity Cafe, in trendy Vinohrady, close to several gay bars. In this
wonderfully atmospheric warren of dining areas - decorated with
leopard-print walls, gilt mirrors, and disco balls - you can dine on
commendable food, from burgers and salads to steak tartare and creative
pastas. Dinner is served until midnight, to the sounds of fun Euro-pop
music humming in the background.
Although it's not a particularly gay section of town, Nove Mesto between
the river and Spalena Street (southeast of the National Theatre) is home
to a number of excellent, trendy restaurants.
A favorite is the Lemon
Leaf, a cosmopolitan Thai-French eatery with soaring arched windows and
vaulted ceilings. Inside, you'll discover a stylish crowd dining on
traditional green curries, satays, and more innovative fare, such as
sliced duck salad with orange, avocados, and plum pesto sauce. Nearby
Globe, a rambling cafe and bookstore with a second-story loft dining area,
is usually flooded with American and British college students. It's a
popular place for a cocktail or coffee and some light snacks, and also a
good place to surf the Web on your laptop (Wi-Fi costs a few dollars per
hour).
Prague has at least 15 gay bars - the best of them are in Vinohrady, but
you'll find a few in Old Town and New Town as well. A note when ordering
drinks: Prague will always be a beer drinker's paradise (and it's best to
avoid most of the rather vinegary wines). Among brands, the ubiquitous
Pilsner Urquell is certainly popular, but also look for Budwar (no
relation to Budweiser) and Kozel.
Among the Old Town bars, check out Friends, a homey basement space with
deep sofas, a friendly staff, and fun music - pop and sometimes even Latin
tunes - into the wee hours. You're likely to encounter a mixed bunch here
- men and women, tourists and locals. A few blocks away, the offbeat Tingl
Tangl is a restaurant on the main level (serving affordable Italian and
Greek food), and a gay bar downstairs comprising a stage for drag cabaret,
a dark little lounge, and a small dance floor.
Among the bars in town that draw a significant number of hustlers and
their customers, Club Escape is the most centrally located (laws in the
Czech Republic are vague about prostitution - it is rarely prosecuted by
law enforcement, and the industry is well-organized). Patrons descend a
flight of stairs to a spacious bar where strippers perform on a small
stage, and exceedingly friendly young men constantly approach the mostly
older potential customers. The other well-known hustler bar is Drake's, a
24-hour club that's most popular after-hours and has been around for
years. Unfortunately, it has a steep cover charge and is in the Smichov
neighborhood, a 10-minute cab ride from the city center.
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