Prague, Czech Republic
By Andrew Collins

Among cities in Eastern Europe, few have developed a more spirited gay and lesbian following than the sophisticated, photogenic Czech Republic capital of Prague. This remarkably well-preserved and relatively compact city of 1.2 million straddles the Vltava River and buzzes with gay-friendly cafes, bars, and shops.

Prague's greatest attributes are its rich history, evident in its beautifully preserved architecture, and its lively buzz - the mix of artists, tourists, ex-pats, students, and gays and lesbians who congregate at trendy hangouts throughout the city. In terms of high-end shopping, haute cuisine, and other more epicurean pursuits, this is a fairly average metropolis as European capitals go, but it's also remarkably liberal and relatively affordable (even factoring in the weak U.S. dollar).

Prague is easy to get around on foot, its central neighborhoods safe and easily navigated. Furthermore, the city is served by an efficient and affordable network of trams and buses as well as an extensive metro (subway) system. With its ancient cathedrals, medieval architecture, and narrow and crooked streets, Old Town (Stare Mesto) is undeniably charming but also heavy-handedly commercial, especially near the inevitably jam-packed blocks around the Charles Bridge - here the streets overflow with shops selling jewelry, crafts, and souvenirs of varying quality. The bridge itself is a must, as it offers dramatic views of the city center in one direction, and imposing Prague Castle in the other. Try to go in the morning, before the crowds overrun it.

New Town (Nove Mesto) is adjacent to Old Town and is Prague's true business center as well as a hub of international hotels, shops, and restaurants. Farther east but still within walking distance are the more residential Zizkov and Vinohrady neighborhoods. In the latter area, you'll find the heart of Prague's gay nightclub scene, but even during the day, Vinohrady is worth exploring. Its broad streets and handsome 19th-century buildings are a welcome relief from the tight and crowded lanes of the city center, and you'll find plenty of eateries and shops along main drags like Vinohradska and Korunni. One good strategy for exploring is to take the metro east to the Flora stop (which is right beneath a rather fancy shopping mall called Palac Flora), and then stroll west back toward the city center (about a 30-minute walk without stops).

Prague has its share of noteworthy restaurants, but the city is characterized more by hearty and traditional Continental cuisine than by cutting-edge fare. You'll find credible Italian, French, and Asian restaurants, and a wealth of atmospheric cafes, but it's best to approach eating out in this city with somewhat tempered expectations.
Continue to page 2>>>

Page 1 of 3