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Los Angeles
72 Hours in West Hollywood
By Andrew Collins

Although many people believe it's just a neighborhood of Los Angeles, the bustling community of West Hollywood is actually its own incorporated city, and has among the highest percentages of gay residents and gay-owned businesses of any place in the country. With its wealth of trendy shops, galleries, restaurants, and nightclubs - plus a nice variety of upscale accommodations and an attractive setting at the base of the Hollywood Hills, this vibrant city makes for a highly enjoyable weekend getaway.

Here's the perfect itinerary for spending three days in West Hollywood, including a few ideas for excursions to nearby neighborhoods elsewhere in greater Los Angeles.

Friday Night
Your first night in town, opt for a relatively casual dinner somewhere in the heart of West Hollywood. You'll find scads of gay-popular restaurants along the main drag, Santa Monica Boulevard. There's Skewers, a cheap and simple Middle Eastern eatery with outdoor tables that provide a nice view of the steady flow of cute pedestrians, and Benvenuto Cafe, a mid-priced Italian restaurant with elegant garden seating. A more sophisticated option is Bin 8945 Wine Bar and Bistro, a mod Euro-style space acclaimed for its sensational, globally influenced food and more than 70 wines available by the glass.

From here you're steps to more than a dozen gay bars and clubs. With a full weekend ahead of you, take it easy and stick with some of the more low-keyed spots. The Mother Lode and Trunks are a couple of festive neighborhood hangouts, and the Palms is L.A.'s longest-running lesbian bar - it's been going strong since the mid-'70s. If it's a new and stylish lounge you're seeking, check out the swanky East/West Lounge, with its comfy armchairs and fancy cocktails.

Saturday
West Hollywood has always been a big breakfast town - people here take the first meal of the day seriously, and excellent options abound. One good bet is the Melrose Avenue outpost of the famed Belgian bakery chain, Le Pain Quotidien, which doles out heavenly pastries, hearty egg dishes, and some of the best coffee around. Melrose is lined with a number of fine boutiques, so you might spend the morning shopping. Set aside a little time to visit the striking Cesar Pelli-designed Pacific Design Center, which has its very own branch of the Museum of Contemporary Art Los Angeles. This airy, 4,000-square-foot space displays many of the seminal works from MOCA's permanent collection as well as temporary shows featuring emerging artists.

Further your art explorations with a tour of the MAK Center for Art & Architecture, inside the R. M. Schindler House, a short drive away on Kings Road. Rudolf Schindler's 1922 modernist home hosts rotating exhibits, as well as information about the architect's many design accomplishments.

By early afternoon, when you starting feeling hunger pangs, make the 10-minute drive to the famed Farmers Market, which offers a true L.A.-style slice of life. This vintage market building is a social hub for all types - gay, straight, old, young, blue-haired, pierced, and so on. Inside you'll find souvenir shops, a great newsstand, food stalls, and some terrific restaurants, including the Gumbo Pot, known for its terrific Cajun and Creole fare, and the funky Kokomo Cafe, which has earned the appreciation of such celebs as Jodie Foster and Drew Barrymore for its remarkably tasty Cobb salads, BLT sandwiches, and decadent desserts. After lunch stroll next door to the adjacent Grove Outdoor shopping center, an upscale, open-air marketplace with a fairly typical selection of high-end chain stores. If you're a serious shopper, consider venturing over to the massive Beverly Center mall, on the edge of West Hollywood, where die-hard browsers can easily while away the afternoon at H & M, Ben Sherman, Diesel, and Hugo Boss.
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