
Cape Town, South Africa
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Allow at least one day to make the drive south of the city along
the coast, past such ritzy residential neighborhoods as Camps Bay (with
its views of the ocean on one side, and the Twelve Apostle mountains on
the other) and Clifton, with its lavish seaside and cliff-top homes.
Stop in the bustling, if somewhat touristy, fishing village of Hout Bay
(where you can take excursion boats out to the massive seal colony on
Duiker Island, or to view whales), and continue south through Simonstown
to see Boulders National Park, home to 3,000 jackass penguins (named for
the braying, donkey-like noises they make). A boardwalk down along the
beach affords up-close encounters with these fascinating animals.
Farther south, a spectacular drive leads to the Cape of Good Hope Nature
Preserve, which has good hiking, lofty peaks, spectacular beaches, and
interesting wildlife. Beware of the baboons here, who sometimes behave
aggressively toward people. If you're curious about these clever
animals, take a walking tour with Baboon Matters, an animal advocacy
organization in Glencairn (on the road between Cape Town and Cape of
Good Hope preserve). These fascinating tours led by experienced guides
take you right into a habitat of relatively tame and approachable
baboons.
Back in the city of Cape Town, you'll find that much of the gay scene
revolves around De Waterkant, a compact district of cobblestone streets
on the northeastern edge of downtown, not far from the V&A Waterfront.
In this little quadrant you'll find several excellent restaurants and
cafes, including atmospheric Anatoli for excellent Turkish cuisine,
Andiamo Deli and Restaurant for contemporary Italian fare with
attractive patio seating, and Cafe Manhattan, which has live music some
nights and is as much a gay bar as a gay restaurant. A more upscale
choice on the edge of De Waterkant is the Showroom, a slick,
white-on-white space known for some of the most creative modern South
African cuisine in the city, plus great people-watching. Stop by Origin
for some of the best coffee around - a bohemian atmosphere prevails at
this lively cafe.
Cape Town excels when it comes to dining, with other notable options
including Fork, a sexy tapas restaurant and lounge, and Jardine, which
turns out such dazzlingly innovative fare as confit of roasted guinea
fowl with orange-braised endive. In the V&A Waterfront, try gay-friendly
Belthazar, a sprawling steakhouse and seafood eatery.
For nightlife, De Waterkant is again your best bet. Head to the Bronx,
a cruisy guy's bar; Bar Code, the city's top venue for men in leather
and uniform; and the Loft Lounge, a hip spot for hobnobbing and
cocktails. For lesbians, there's Lush, a roving Saturday night party
that was, as of this writing, taking place at the Junction Cafe - the
Lush website has details. Also in De Waterkant you'll find Cape Town's
popular gay sauna, the Hothouse, an attractive and rather upscale spot
with a restaurant, bars, and spotless cabins and common facilities. Of
particular note is a sundeck affording superb views of the city.
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