Key West, Florida
By Andrew Collins

Among famous gay resort towns, Key West has always stood out for its sheer embrace of total relaxation. This laid-back tropical island in the Caribbean, closer to Cuba than to mainland Florida, is without pretensions. People rarely worry about what time it is, dress is casual and colorful, and the party scene is friendly and easygoing. Key West is neither fancy nor especially urbane - it's just a great place to laze in a deck chair on a bougainvillea-choked lanai, browse for beachwear and souvenirs along the main drag, Duval Street, or relax on a restaurant patio noshing on raw oysters and sipping mango iced tea or mojitos.

For a seasonal tourist town, Key West has plenty to offer when it comes to dining and nightlife. Few places draw more raves for outstanding food than Alice's Key West, where chef Alice Weingarten serves some of the most inventive food in town, including delicious smoked-salmon Benedict at breakfast. A departure from Key West's predominant laid-back tropical look, Square One is a sophisticated restaurant with white table linen and fine china. The regionally inspired Continental cuisine includes escargot baked in a crepe with fresh spinach, garlic, feta, and a tomato beurre blanc. It's a top choice for a romantic evening.

One of the better Italian restaurants in town, and also one of the gayest, La Trattoria has two dining rooms - the smaller one romantic and intimate, the larger better for groups of friends. The straightforward cooking draws high praise for such tasty creations as local shrimp sauteed with garlic, fresh tomatoes, and herbes de Provence in a white wine, lemon, and butter sauce. One of Duval Street's true places to be seen, Mangoes brims with colorful sorts. The composed salads, pastas, and grills - all with nouvelle Florida touches - are commendable. Consider rib eye steak Caribe (pan-charred with tamarind steak sauce and yucca).

Seven Fish, which occupies an old luncheonette and has a sleek, sophisticated interior, serves seafood-oriented bistro fare, such as crab and shiitake mushroom ravioli. The slogan at Mangia Mangia is "pasta to the people," a philosophy reflected by the many varieties of heavenly homemade pasta, all fairly priced. The painstakingly preserved building has a lovely, quiet garden and redbrick patio in back. You'll need luck and persistence most nights to get a seat at Camille's, a small storefront bistro, but the friendly vibe and down-home comfort food are worth the trouble. Expect good salads and sandwiches, such as Philly cheese steak, and delicious pancakes for breakfast.

For arguably the best sandwiches and wraps on the island, try Lobo's - the oyster roll with cheddar, bacon, and basil tartar sauce is a stand-out. El Siboney is a zero-atmosphere eatery - the place in town for humble, stick-to-your-ribs Cuban fare. Rickety tables are set with plastic tablecloths and paper napkins. Try such Havana specialties as conch chowder, garlic chicken, stuffed shrimp and crabs, platanos (plantains), and a sweet flan to top it off. As for traditional Cuban sandwiches, tiny 5 Brothers Grocery - on a side street in the historic district - serves the best around.
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