Richmond and Charlottesville
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About an hour west of Richmond, the charming collegiate city of Charlottesville - famous for the regal, Jeffersonian campus of the University of Virginia - has arguably the most visible gay community in the state. You'll often see same-sex couples walking about the bustling downtown, or eating in one of the many trendy restaurants. It's a pleasure to walk around campus, notable for its excellent Bayly Art Museum and the courtly architecture inspired by the school's founder, Thomas Jefferson. Try to dedicate a full day to explore the enchanting countryside outside of Charlottesville. Just south of town, you can tour Monticello, the former home of President Jefferson, which is a short drive from President James Monroe's estate, Ash Lawn-Highland.

A favorite activity in town is strolling along the pedestrian-only Historic Downtown Mall, where you'll find great shopping, as well as the city's most inviting gay nightlife option, Escafe, which is also a commendable restaurant serving reasonably priced international chow (filet mignon quesadillas, shrimp pot stickers, rigatoni with pancetta). An amusing mural on one wall depicts various locales around Charlottesville, and in warm weather, you can relax on a patio overlooking the pedestrian traffic.

Other excellent restaurants on or near the mall include Ten Sushi, a chic spot with a big-city vibe and such rarefied modern-Asian fare as kobe short ribs with miso sauce, and lobster tempura in sweet-and-pepper garlic aioli - you'll also find one of the largest sake selections in the country. Blue Light Grill and Raw Bar is similarly sophisticated and serves even better food, including blue-crab salad with sweet-spring peas, and big-eye tuna and foie gras with a sour-cherry sauce. For a casual but delicious lunch or dinner, consider Hamilton's at First and Main, where the likes of grilled-quail Cobb salad, and smoked pork tenderloin with lemon-chive butter await you.

Mudhouse is the coolest coffeehouse on the mall, with sidewalk seating and free Wi-Fi. Around the corner, have a drink at the gay-friendly X lounge, a slick, postindustrial space with tall windows and high ceilings. This is also a good bet for cocktails, or for a full dinner - the contemporary American cooking is first-rate. The nearby Gravity lounge has something of a GLBT following (including occasional women's nights on Saturdays). This homey basement space has live folk music and jazz many nights and funky lounge seating. Come for coffee, to surf the Web at the computer terminal, or to sip wine and beer with friends.

Near UVA campus. the lavish Inn at Court Square, which is the oldest structure in downtown Charlottesville, is also extremely gay-friendly. Among the seven rooms, many have whirlpool baths and working fireplaces. For a splurge, check into Clifton, a posh getaway built in the 18th century - it was once the home of Thomas Jefferson's daughter. The 14 elegantly furnished rooms occupy several buildings set amid 100 acres of fragrant gardens. The inn's restaurant serves some of the best food in town, such as "forever-roasted" pork belly with a whipped sauce of golden raisins and cider. If you're seeking a truly romantic getaway, spending a night or two at Clifton is hard to beat.

Andrew Collins is the author of Fodor's Gay Guide to the USA and as well as numerous other guidebooks.