Richmond and Charlottesville
By Andrew Collins

Virginia, with its reputation for conservative political and religious views, doesn't always strike gays and lesbians as a likely place to plan a vacation. But while it's been home to right-wing ideologues like George Allen, Pat Robertson, Ollie North, and the late Jerry Falwell, this state famed for its natural scenery offers several great reasons for visiting. Progressive and attractive Charlottesville is steeped in history and abounds with hip eateries, antiques shops, and attractive, hilly terrain. And the deeply Southern and proper capital, Richmond, is interior Virginia's gay hub, and also home to a slew of exceptional museums and historic sites.

Richmond - a hilly, tree-shaded city of about 200,000 residents - sits on a bluff over the James River. Its historic downtown, with a thoroughly modern skyline, is anchored by one of the South's most imposing and visually dramatic government buildings, the Virginia State Capitol (it's open daily for free tours). If sightseeing interests you, allow at least a couple days just to see the city's highlights - there are several excellent museums and intriguing neighborhoods. Among the top attractions, check out Maymont Estate, with its fabulous gardens and ornately decorated mansion; the Richmond History Center, with changing exhibits on the city's 400-year heritage; and the John Marshall House, the home of one of colonial America's foremost statesmen.

Just west of downtown, the Fan is a gracious neighborhood of neatly preserved, mostly redbrick, 19th-century houses. You'll also find the campus of Virginia Commonwealth University, and the grand and distinguished Monument Avenue. For several blocks this broad road with a grassy median is lined with statues of Confederate icons. More recently, amid considerable controversy, a statue of the black tennis star Arthur Ashe - a Richmond native who died of AIDS in 1993 - was erected along the avenue.

Quite a few gays and lesbians reside in the Fan, but the gay community is even more visible in the neighborhood just west, Carytown. Here, Cary Street and several cross streets are lined with cafes and boutiques, including Soap, a whimsical shop that carries fine bath products, and Urban Artifacts, know for hip home decor and accessories. Be sure to visit Carytown's highly respected Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, which pop-culture junkies adore for its Triple Elvis by Andy Warhol.

There's plenty of good eating in this neighborhood. Java addicts get their fix at Capital Coffee and Desserts, a cute sidewalk cafe with toothsome calorie-laden cookies and cakes. New York Delicatessen & Restaurant serves hefty sandwiches and filling breakfasts (despite the name, this is a full-service sit-down restaurant with a liquor license), and Bev's is worth a stop for such memorable flavors of homemade ice cream as candy-cane and Almond Joy. Pre- and post-club-goers frequent the gay-popular, neon-infused Galaxy Diner.

Among Richmond's more upscale gay-friendly restaurants, don't miss the handsome Can Can Brasserie, a favorite gay date venue serving superbly prepared French fare, from traditional coq au vin to braised short ribs with roasted butternut squash, braised celery, chestnuts, and a port-wine reduction. Bacchus is another excellent eatery near Carytown, known for a creative wine list and such tempting Mediterranean cooking as sauteed calamari with olive oil, lemon, and capers; and seared sea scallops with prosciutto and truffle oil.
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