Wine-Tasting and Wildlife-Watching in South Australia
By Andrew Collins

Australia beckons visitors with a long list of "must-see" destinations, from urban gay meccas like Sydney and Melbourne to natural attractions like the Great Barrier Reef and Ayers Rock. You can add another area to the list: the long-underrated city of Adelaide and its scenic surrounding countryside, which have become renowned for fine wineries, esteemed restaurants, and sophisticated country inns. Though it has a somewhat low-keyed gay scene, Adelaide hosts a two-week gay cultural festival, Feast, in November and has a terrific theater scene and countless exceptional restaurants.

The best way to appreciate this part of Australia is with a series of multiday adventures - allow three days in Adelaide, three more on nearby Kangaroo Island (which offers some of the best wildlife-viewing in the country), and two days each in the Barossa and Adelaide Hills wine regions. Here's the perfect itinerary for exploring this picturesque slice of Australian sophistication and hospitality.

Days 1 through 3: Adelaide
With about 1.2 million inhabitants, Adelaide is the nation's fourth-largest city. This civil, if somewhat prim, metropolis is characterized by leafy parkland, a well-developed cultural landscape, and a general sense of order and cleanliness. The city has several worthwhile museums, the two best being the Migration Museum and the State Library of South Australia, whose Mortlock Wing has exhibits on Adelaide's history, including an exhibit of vintage Gay Pride posters. Also check out the National Wine Centre of Australia, which occupies a dramatic contemporary building on the edge of the verdant Adelaide Botanic Park. Here you can learn about Australian wines, attend tastings, and have lunch in the center's excellent cafe.

Also of interest to gourmands, Adelaide's bustling Central Market contains more than 250 shops and stalls selling every conceivable type of fresh food. The market and the surrounding neighborhood afford countless opportunities to sample foods prepared by Adelaide's many European and Asian immigrants. Stop by Lucia's Pizza for delectable Italian fare and potent espresso, or walk down nearby Gouger Street to Wah Hing, which serves first-rate modern Chinese food, or stylish Mapo, known for beautifully prepared Korean cuisine.

Reliable lodging options in Adelaide include the gay-friendly Majestic Roof Garden Hotel, a modern property in the heart of the East End dining and entertainment area. As its name suggests, a garden on the roof provides a relaxing spot to unwind and admire the city's skyline. Nearby are such popular eateries as Eros (for commendable Greek food) and the Chocolate Bean, a hip little cafe where you can sample artisanal chocolates. Another appealing choice is the Hyatt Regency Adelaide, a modern high-rise overlooking the scenic River Torrens.

No visit to Adelaide is complete without a short excursion on the tram to the charming beach suburb of Glenelg, known for its slew of sidewalk cafes and restaurants. Head to gay-owned Zest Cafe Gallery, just off Glenelg's main drag, for a gourmet breakfast or lunch, perhaps a frittata with caramelized onions, sauteed potatoes, and Jarlsberg cheese.

Gay nightlife in Adelaide is fun but rather limited. A handful of mainstream places around town have a mixed gay-straight following, such as hipster-infested La Boheme and the friendly Wheatsheaf Hotel pub. The only true gay establishment is Mars Bar, a festive club with a spacious covered patio upstairs and a crowded dance floor and a couple of intimate bars downstairs.
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