Fast-growing Austin has been one of America's most talked about cities
over the past decade, having not only increased its population by nearly
50 percent but also solidified its reputation as an ultra-cool place to
live and visit. The fact that Austin is oppressively hot for a few
months each summer is about its only major negative. As autumn
approaches, however, Austin cools off again - and this means the city's
myriad cafes, lounges, music clubs, and gay hangouts sizzle with
activity.
If you've been to this left-leaning - especially by Texas standards -
city before, say five or more years ago, you may have trouble
recognizing it. The downtown landscape has been transformed by recently
constructed office and hotel towers, and a fantastic new airport makes
traveling here a breeze. Here's a recipe for enjoying the perfect
three-day weekend in this upbeat, welcoming metropolis.
Consider staying in the funky downtown Warehouse District, with its
bounty of both gay and gay-friendly bars as well as hip restaurants and
offbeat boutiques. Worthy recommendations include the most glamorous
hotel in town, the Intercontinental Stephen F. Austin, an opulent
16-story beauty with marble baths, 1920s-era furnishings, and
twice-daily maid service. Perfectly appealing yet less pricey downtown
alternatives include the Radisson Town Lake, whose rooms face the scenic
Colorado River (known as Town Lake in this part of the city), and the
Hampton Inn and Suites, an attractive, reasonably priced mid-rise opened
a few years ago.
Across the river, within walking distance of downtown, you'll find
another excellent lodging base, the retro-trendy South Congress
district, home to the cleverly restored Austin Motel. Many rooms at this
quirky slice of '50s-style Americana have tile floors, kitchenettes,
Jacuzzi tubs, and kidney-shaped patios. There's an on-site Mexican
restaurant, El Sol y La Luna, that turns out fiery, kick-ass huevos
rancheros and carne asada. A few blocks away, the swankier Hotel San
Jose is another old motor court that's been given a postmodern,
minimalist makeover. The spacious courtyard suites are downright posh
(and pricey), but a simpler though still snazzy room with a shared bath
runs for under $100 nightly. Entertain guests in the hotel's scene-y
lounge-cum-coffeehouse.
On Friday, your first night in town, decompress after your flight or car
ride with a relaxing, informal meal at one of the city's well-regarded
purveyors of Tex-Mex, such as Guero's or Manuel's. A former feed store
that's now a fabulous taqueria, Guero's serves some of the best Mexican
fare in central Texas - from standard but artfully seasoned tamales to
more innovative creations like marinated grilled pork on a corn tortilla
with onions, cilantro, and fresh pineapple. Fancier than most of the
Mexican restaurants in town, Manuel's is a sleek, deco-inspired space in
the Warehouse District with a sassy little bar in back. Try some of the
more innovative creations, like corn-battered colossal shrimp with a
poblano-chile cream, or pork enchiladas in a velvety mole sauce. Continue to page
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