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Austin


Austin


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Austin
Austin, Texas
By Andrew Collins

Fast-growing Austin has been one of America's most talked about cities over the past decade, having not only increased its population by nearly 50 percent but also solidified its reputation as an ultra-cool place to live and visit. The fact that Austin is oppressively hot for a few months each summer is about its only major negative. As autumn approaches, however, Austin cools off again - and this means the city's myriad cafes, lounges, music clubs, and gay hangouts sizzle with activity.

If you've been to this left-leaning - especially by Texas standards - city before, say five or more years ago, you may have trouble recognizing it. The downtown landscape has been transformed by recently constructed office and hotel towers, and a fantastic new airport makes traveling here a breeze. Here's a recipe for enjoying the perfect three-day weekend in this upbeat, welcoming metropolis.

Consider staying in the funky downtown Warehouse District, with its bounty of both gay and gay-friendly bars as well as hip restaurants and offbeat boutiques. Worthy recommendations include the most glamorous hotel in town, the Intercontinental Stephen F. Austin, an opulent 16-story beauty with marble baths, 1920s-era furnishings, and twice-daily maid service. Perfectly appealing yet less pricey downtown alternatives include the Radisson Town Lake, whose rooms face the scenic Colorado River (known as Town Lake in this part of the city), and the Hampton Inn and Suites, an attractive, reasonably priced mid-rise opened a few years ago.

Across the river, within walking distance of downtown, you'll find another excellent lodging base, the retro-trendy South Congress district, home to the cleverly restored Austin Motel. Many rooms at this quirky slice of '50s-style Americana have tile floors, kitchenettes, Jacuzzi tubs, and kidney-shaped patios. There's an on-site Mexican restaurant, El Sol y La Luna, that turns out fiery, kick-ass huevos rancheros and carne asada. A few blocks away, the swankier Hotel San Jose is another old motor court that's been given a postmodern, minimalist makeover. The spacious courtyard suites are downright posh (and pricey), but a simpler though still snazzy room with a shared bath runs for under $100 nightly. Entertain guests in the hotel's scene-y lounge-cum-coffeehouse.

On Friday, your first night in town, decompress after your flight or car ride with a relaxing, informal meal at one of the city's well-regarded purveyors of Tex-Mex, such as Guero's or Manuel's. A former feed store that's now a fabulous taqueria, Guero's serves some of the best Mexican fare in central Texas - from standard but artfully seasoned tamales to more innovative creations like marinated grilled pork on a corn tortilla with onions, cilantro, and fresh pineapple. Fancier than most of the Mexican restaurants in town, Manuel's is a sleek, deco-inspired space in the Warehouse District with a sassy little bar in back. Try some of the more innovative creations, like corn-battered colossal shrimp with a poblano-chile cream, or pork enchiladas in a velvety mole sauce.
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