
Victoria, Canada
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Victoria lies at the southern tip of the Saanich Peninsula, a fertile
strip of land dotted with family farms and a growing number of esteemed
wineries. It's worth spending an afternoon exploring this region, whose
most famous attraction is Butchart Gardens, a half-hour northwest of the
city. The Butchart family made its fortune manufacturing cement in the
late 19th century; when they finished mining their quarry, they
transformed it into this magnificent collection of gardens. Among the 55
acres you'll see every imaginable flower, and there are concerts as well
as Saturday-night fireworks displays in July and August.
From Butchart, there are several wineries within an easy drive. As you
motor around the countryside, keep an eye out for farm stands and
roadside markets, many of them selling fresh jams, baked goods, flowers,
and produce. They often operate on an honor system - pick out your
goods, and leave behind payment. Wineries of particular note include
Marley Farm, a family-run establishment that specializes in some quite
unusual fruit wines, including kiwi, pear, loganberry, and quince
varieties. You're apt to see sheep and horses wandering the 5-acre
grounds. Tiny Chalet Estate Vineyard is well-regarded for its
high-quality, unfiltered vintages, from syrahs to viogniers.
Where there are wineries, there are virtually always wonderful
restaurants, and Victoria is no exception. Probably the most gay-popular
of the city's up-market restaurants, Cafe Brio is a sophisticated little
chef-owned bistro that's an absolute delight for romantic, intimate
meals. The contemporary West Coast cuisine has Tuscan overtones - you
might start with crispy roasted sweetbreads with poached rhubarb,
followed by tomato-and-molasses-braised lamb shank with
fresh-mint-potato gnocchi. For some of the best modern Italian food in
town, including fantastic wood-fired pizzas with such creative toppings
as smoked ahi tuna and marinated artichokes, dine at Il Terrazzo, whose
airy dining room resembles a cloistered courtyard. It's steps from the
diverting shopping along Johnson Street and features one of the city's
best wine lists.
With a memorable setting inside a former schoolhouse in Canada's oldest
Chinatown, Brasserie L'Ecole is the domain of talented chef-owner Sean
Brennan, who utilizes local produce in his innovative regional fare,
such as local trout with escarole and Jerusalem artichokes.
Well-seasoned, imaginatively prepared vegetarian fare is the specialty
at Re-Bar Modern Food, an offbeat spot on downtown's Bastion Square,
where you might dine on shiitake-tofu potstickers or Thai coconut-cashew
prawn curry.
For lighter dining and snacking, grab a latte or cappuccino at
gay-popular Bean Around the World Coffee, a Chinatown java joint that
uses organic coffee beans. Or nosh on eggs Benedict, hefty burgers, and
other short-order fare at Rosie's Diner, a downtown cafe with a festive
'50s-inspired retro look. The city's sizable Asian community ensures a
wealth of first-rate Chinese, Thai, and Japanese restaurants. For
sensational Thai fare, try Siam Thai.
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