
Charleston, SC
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No visit to Charleston is complete without a side trip to one of the
imposing plantations. Consider the 1740s Drayton Hall, the only extant
antebellum mansion along the Ashley River (it's unfurnished, however);
and Middleton Place, a 1741 spread whose colorful gardens are the oldest
in the country.
Charleston specializes in Lowcountry cuisine, which blends soul, Creole,
and traditional Southern recipes and takes advantage of the region's
bounty of local seafood. One of the best restaurants in the region,
Peninsula Grill recalls the vibe of an elegant, vintage supper club and
serves such innovative fare as skillet-seared Carolina mountain trout
with mango brown butter sauce and sundried tomato-grits. The same owners
operate nearby Hank's, a similarly esteemed restaurant that specializes
in delicious retro fare, such as shrimp and grits, plus broiled and
fried seafood platters. Head to Slightly North of Broad (aka "S.N.O.B.")
for delicious yet relatively affordable New Southern cooking with
flawless service and several seats facing directly into the high-tech
kitchen.
Another of the city's purveyors of reinvented Southern fare is Anson,
which is housed within a handsome former warehouse and serves such
revelatory creations as cornmeal-dusted okra with chili oil and goat
cheese, and fried double-cut pork chop with potato puree, collard
greens, and creamy onion gravy. Set in an intimate 1837 house in the
Upper King Street neighborhood, the aptly named Fish serves first-rate
seafood at reasonable prices. Try roasted-corn-and-crawfish chowder,
followed by mahimahi with butternut squash puree,
shiitake-mushroom-and-sherry reduction.
Just down the street, grab dessert at Cupcake, a diminutive storefront
that bakes unbelievably rich and moist cupcakes in about 25 tantalizing
flavors, including red velvet and banana-butterscotch. A favorite
restaurant with the gay community is Vickery's, the Charleston outpost
of a popular Atlanta restaurant that serves such tasty and affordable
Caribbean, Cuban, and Lowcountry cooking as grilled jerk chicken, black
bean cakes, and fried-green-tomato turnovers.
Charleston's gay nightlife is limited, but the few options are friendly
and fun. The two main gay nightspots, operated by the same owner, sit a
couple of doors from each other, just off the increasingly gentrified
upper end of King Street - about a 15-minute walk north of the heart of
the historic Market Street area. Of the two, convivial Dudley's Pub is
the best spot to mingle with friends or meet new ones. It consists of an
attractive little bar up front and a pool room in back. The larger venue
is Pantheon, a hopping dance club with go-go dancers, a DJ spinning
pulsing music, and drag shows some evenings. The remaining gay option is
Patrick's Pub & Grill, a friendly neighborhood spot that's a 15-minute
drive from downtown. You'll find all kinds of fun theme nights here,
from Disco Inferno Wednesdays to female-impersonation cabarets on
Saturdays.
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