Puerto Vallarta, Mexico
By Andrew Collins

It's hard to name a gay resort destination in North America that has more going for it than Puerto Vallarta, a fast-growing city on the Pacific Coast's fabled Mexican Riviera. PV's historic downtown ("El Centro") is nestled beneath the verdant slopes of the Sierra Madre Mountains. Just south of El Centro, in Zona Romantica, you'll find a bustling gay scene comprising hip martini bars, pulsing dance clubs, relatively affordable hotels and condo rentals, and critically acclaimed restaurants. But there's far more to this friendly city that offers everything from posh full-service resorts, exhilarating recreational activities, and gorgeous scenery.

With a population of roughly 220,000, Puerto Vallarta has seen huge growth in recent years, to the point that it bears little resemblance to the sleepy fishing port that provided the 1963 filming location for the movie version of Tennessee Williams' The Night of the Iguana. Star Richard Burton and new love Elizabeth Taylor, who joined him on the shoot, became entranced with the city - they bought a house here together during filming.

In recent years, PV has developed into one of Mexico's most desirable resorts, its diverse elements appealing to a wide range of visitors. It's a major port on the Mexican Riviera cruise-ship circuit (along with Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan, Acapulco, and Manzanillo). Sprawling international resorts and condo developments, which have been built from the edge of downtown to many miles north of the city, attract families, retirees, and honeymooners. Sporting and adventure enthusiasts come for the zip-lining forest canopy tours, scuba diving, mountain biking, deep-sea fishing, and many other outdoorsy activities.

Zona Romantica is a compact patchwork of hilly lanes tucked beneath the Sierra Madre foothills. The neighborhood fringes Los Muertos Beach, and narrow auto and pedestrian bridges connect the district with El Centro. The relative isolation of Zona Romantica as well as its elegantly faded veneer and historic charm may very well account for its ever-increasing draw among gay visitors and bohemian types. It's a neighborhood that celebrates its insularity and diversity - everyone is welcome, but especially during the bustling high season (from about December through April), certain blocks of Zona Romantica seem at least as gay as the downtowns of Provincetown and Palm Springs.

There are a few more general attributes that further enhance Puerto Vallarta's standing. Although the city has become significantly more expensive as its star has risen, it's still less costly than many other alluring tropical resorts. Dinner entrees at top restaurants rarely cost more than $25 and often run $10 to $15. Hotel rates, cab rides, cocktails, fashionable clothing, and handcrafted gifts also tend to cost less than those in the Caribbean, Hawaii, or California, although it's absolutely possible to find high-end exceptions to many of these rules.
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