The genteel and cozier Royal Palms Resort and Spa could pass for a
splendid private villa in Spain, with its fanciful stone paths
meandering past fragrant gardens and citrus-tree-shrouded casitas decked
in old-world antiques and tiles. The weekend brunch at T. Cook's - best
enjoyed on the sunny patio - is a Phoenix tradition, and the resort's
tranquil Alvadora Spa provides some of the most supremely relaxing
treatments you can imagine, from Watsu water therapy to crystal-stone
facials. Die-hard massage junkies should book one of the seven
state-of-the-art spa suites.
In downtown Phoenix, the upscale Hyatt Regency Phoenix and the
eight-story, moderately priced Best Western Central Phoenix Inn are
solid options, all within a short drive or walk of area bars,
restaurants, shops, and museums. A less obvious pick is the funky,
gay-friendly Hotel San Carlos, a grand if faded 121-room Italian
Renaissance-style lodging that's allegedly haunted (by friendly ghosts).
It's definitely seen better days, but for the price, it's a good bet
with a convenient, central location - especially if you prefer quirky
over glamorous.
Nearby Scottsdale abounds with more recently built resorts, from the
supremely cushy Sanctuary Camelback Mountain resort and swish Four
Seasons Scottsdale, to the sexy and hip Scottsdale Mondrian and
retro-chic Hotel Valley Ho. In Chandler, consider the Sheraton Wild
Horse Pass (which is expected to become a Starwood Luxury Collection
property later in 2007), an attractive spread on the Gila River Indian
Reservation, 20 miles southeast of downtown. The vibe here is low-keyed
and unpretentious, thanks in part to the consistently genial employees.
The much-lauded Kai restaurant and the transcendent Aji Spa remind you,
however, that you're staying at a truly splendid desert hideaway. An
equestrian center offering trail rides and a campy ersatz frontier town
called Rawhide (think stagecoach rides, goofy gift shops, and gunfightin'
reenactments) may help you to channel your inner cowgirl or -boy.
Greater Phoenix also has a handful of gay-oriented accommodations, which
range from homey B&Bs to saucy clothing-optional retreats. Downtown's
gay-owned but mainstream Yum Yum Tree Guest House, in the hip and
historic Willo neighborhood, occupies a 1920s school building with
soaring ceilings and Mexican-tile floors. Shaded patios and gurgling
fountains surround the Spanish Mission-style building, which also
adjoins a relaxing pool area. A racier option is the Arizona Royal
Villa, a nudity-permitted men's compound with an impressively enticing
pool, hot tub, and sunning area and rooms and suites in a variety of
configurations. For $10, non-overnight guests can spend the day here
swimming, tanning, and mingling with fellow sun-bunnies. It may lack the
pizzazz of the Biltmore, but this frisky compound is the closest you'll
find in these parts to a Palm Springs-style gay resort.
Andrew Collins is the
author of Fodor's Gay Guide to the USA and as well as numerous other
guidebooks.