Several peripheral residential neighborhoods have become gentrified of
late, such as the Willo and Garfield Place historic districts. Of
particular note is Roosevelt Row, a burgeoning mixed-use residential
district that supports several excellent galleries as well as a
wonderful bakery, Tammie Coe Cakes (stop in for a latte and a sweet
treat or two). Speaking of baked goods, ardent pizza connoisseurs have
been known to travel thousands of miles for a meal at Pizzeria Bianco,
inside a historic building in the heart of the bustling Heritage Square
section of downtown. Chef-owner Chris Bianco has been dubbed a
pizza-making genius for his simply sensational wood-fired pies,
including the Wiseguy (topped with roasted onion, house-smoked
mozzarella, and fennel sausage). Just beware the long lines.
Vinophiles have taken a shine to Cheuvront Wine & Cheese Cafe, the
brainchild of the city's openly gay state senator, Ken Cheuvront. This
happening place near the Phoenix Art Museum serves countless vintages by
the glass and bottle as well as a long menu of stellar cheeses, salads,
pizzas, and snacks. It's a short walk down Central Avenue from here to
reach the city's premier gay bar, Amsterdam, an elegant lounge that's
part of a larger complex that includes Club Miami and Malibu Beach Bar.
Other gay night spots within a short drive include the lesbian-favored
Club Vibe, which replaced long-running Ain't Nobody's Biz and offers
dancing, darts, and pool; the leather-and-Levi's-oriented Phoenix Eagle;
and the high-energy Karamba Nightclub. Gay two-steppers and
country-western fans gather at Charlie's, while fans of drag and karaoke
get their fix at Burger Betty's, an Aussie-themed gay restaurant and
bar.
With all the snazzy new resorts that have opened in Scottsdale and other
outlying cities, it's easy to forget that Phoenix itself is home to a
pair of aces: the Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired Arizona Biltmore, and the
intimate, old-world Royal Palms, both of which opened in the late '20s.
The 40-acre Biltmore, with its gray, low-slung, angular buildings
containing 738 guest rooms, lies in the shadows of Phoenix Mountain
Reserve. There's also fine golfing and an acclaimed spa. Set aside an
evening to dine at Wright's at the Biltmore, where such inventive
regional American fare as milk-poached pork tenderloin with foie gras
sauce draws fawning accolades. Many a diva whiles away a Saturday
afternoon at the nearby Biltmore Fashion Park, strolling through
high-end boutiques and snacking at trendy restaurants. Continue to page
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