Start with a walk through Barrio Norte, a busy and bustling district with
a sizable gay presence and loads of fine clothing, home-furnishings, and
electronics stores along the main drag, Avenida Santa Fe. The most
charming neighborhoods for exploring, however, are Palermo and the
adjacent Palermo Viejo - the latter has the most pronounced GBLT
presence in Buenos Aires. Narrow cobblestone streets lined with uber-chic
boutiques, snazzy wine bars, Euro-inspired cafes, and offbeat galleries
abound in both neighborhoods but particularly in Palermo Viejo. Another
district with gay cachet is San Telmo, which is close to downtown and
whose elegantly faded 19th-century buildings, many of them former
tenements, now contain a fabulous array of antiques dealers plus a
growing number of hip restaurants.
Among the many superb restaurants in Palermo Viejo, don't miss Bar
Uriarte, a sexy lounge with a convivial garden in back and outstanding
brick-oven pizzas and innovative tapas; and Mott, a gorgeous, minimalist
restaurant with high ceilings, stylish decor, and fantastic wines and
healthful, light food. The beautifully modern space occupied by Miranda
Restaurant fills up each evening with devotees of the kitchen's
delicious steaks and chops.
Freud & Fahler is an intimate place that's a great bet for creative
Mediterranean-inspired fare, and sleek Olsen has earned a loyal
following for both its intriguing people-watching and delicious
Scandinavian food (there's also a huge vodka selection). If you're just
looking for a spot with free Wi-Fi and light breakfast and lunch fare,
stop by gay-popular Mark's Deli, a dapper little place with a pretty
garden, or old-world Bartok, a graceful Euro-style coffeehouse with
sidewalk seating overlooking the edge of busy Plaza Palermo Viejo.
Bartok serves tasty salads, sandwiches, and desserts.
Other gustatory highlights around Buenos Aires - and this is just a tiny
sampling - include Milion, an uber-modern resto-lounge in Barrio Norte,
and Bond, one of the gay-friendliest of the many excellent restaurants
in snazzy Recoleta, serving an eclectic menu of sushi,
Mediterranean-inspired tapas, and modern Argentinean fare. To sample the
tender steaks for which Argentina is known, head just around the corner
to El Mirasol, which is touristy but absolutely dependable for
outstanding beef. Owned by the same talented folks who operate Bar
Uriarte, Gran Bar Danzon is one of Recoleta's trendiest wine bars,
serving outstanding Continental and Latino food, too. Continue to page
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