Ski and Snow in Utah
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In addition to the Canyons, Park City has two major downhill ski resorts, the Park City Mountain Resort, with 104 trails and several lifts that operate directly from downtown, and rugged Deer Valley, on the south side of town toward the Heber Valley. One of the nation's only ski resorts that does not allow snowboarding, Deer Valley is characterized by challenging terrain, amazing views, and a low-keyed, welcoming vibe. Whether or not you ski here, don't miss the resort's top-notch, slope-side restaurant, the Royal Street Cafe, which serves up such memorable lunch fare as grilled-tuna tacos with chipotle mayo, and house-smoked pulled-pork sandwiches (there's also a great selection of microbrew beers).

The Heber Valley
Just a 20-minute drive south of Park City, the Heber Valley is a stunning though less touristy area that's rapidly developing cachet among outdoors enthusiasts thanks to its superb sporting and recreational facilities, as well as accommodations and restaurants that generally cost less than those closer to Salt Lake City. Anchored by two major towns, Heber City and Midway, this fertile farming valley surrounded by lofty, snowcapped mountains has been nicknamed "Switzerland of America," and quite a few of the buildings in the area have a distinctly Swiss Alps look. Many dairy and cattle farms have disappeared over the years, replaced to some extent with upscale weekend homes and condo developments.

You won't find the see-and-be-seen nightlife and retail buzz typical of Park City, but the Heber Valley offers plenty to do during the day, plus tranquil, romantic resorts and inns where you can curl up by a fire in the evening. Activities in these parts include scenic excursions on the vintage Heber Valley Railroad and plenty of opportunities for fun in the snow and sun. There are three state parks (Wasatch Mountain, Jordanelle, and Deer Creek) offering all kinds of activities, from snowshoeing to snowmobiling. At Wasatch Mountain, the Soldier Hollow area - which was a 2002 Olympics venue - offers cross-country skiing, biathlon racing, snowshoeing, and a snow-tubing park that claims the longest sliding lanes in Utah.

For lodging ideas, consider the Swiss Alps-themed Zermatt Resort, which opened in September 2006 and consists of a 17,000-square-foot spa offering every imaginable treatment, as well as a charming four-story chalet, called Hotel der Baer, with 226 spacious rooms outfitted with kitchenettes, flat-screen TVs, and rustic yet elegant hard-carved furnishings. There are also condo villas with fireplaces and jetted tubs.

The venerable and historic Homestead Resort is another inviting lodging option, with some distinctive amenities. You can swim or even scuba dive in the resort's spring-fed Homestead Crater, a hollowed-out dome covering a 60-foot-deep mineral pool that's open year-round (and maintains a sultry 90-degree temperature), and there's cross-country skiing throughout the winter months. The Homestead has a variety of attractive accommodations set among 19 historic and contemporary buildings as well as an invigorating Aveda Concept Spa and two fine restaurants. If you've burned a few thousands calories during your trip to Utah, treat yourself to the lavish but calorie-laden Sunday brunch spread at the resort's main restaurant, Simon's.
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