
Cool, Gay-Friendly Diners
By Andrew
Collins
As restaurants go, diners have long been the great social equalizers.
They've struck a chord with hungry patrons from every social and
economic realm, regardless of politics or religion, gender or - since
the abolition of Jim Crow laws - race. In many instances they've become
fixtures in local gay and lesbian communities, often as reliable
post-nightclubbing oases of home-style cooking, giggly flirtation, and
unpredictable people-watching.
Begun in 1872 when an enterprising young man sold 5-cent sandwiches from
a wagon in downtown Providence, the "diner" concept has been improved
upon over the years. In truth, a great many of what we now call diners
bear little resemblance to the tiny wood-frame or stainless-steel boxes
that proliferated in cities and along highways throughout the 20th
century. There are general commonalities, however: Naugahyde stools and
booths, Formica counters, mini-jukeboxes, the delightful aromas of hot
coffee and bacon grease, and the sizzling sound of eggs and burgers on a
hot griddle.
Whether you're an addict of diner culture or a newcomer to this culinary
genre, keep the following list of gay-popular greasy spoons in mind
during your travels. After all, you never know when or where the urge
for blueberry pancakes or steak-and-eggs will strike.
Ann Sather, Chicago, Illinois
The original of this incredibly popular diner in the heart of Boys' Town
was opened in 1945 by Swedish immigrant Ann Sather, who developed many
of the restaurant's beloved, stick-to-your-ribs recipes, from Swedish
pancakes with lingonberries to meatballs with noodles and a hearty
gravy. The current owners now run four Ann Sather restaurants, all of
them typically packed throughout the day with satisfied, loyal patrons
who appreciate the restaurant's cheerful decor and doting waitstaff.
Don't miss the flaky cinnamon rolls served at breakfast.
Bagdad
Cafe, San Francisco, California
Although it's sometimes jokingly called the "Fag Hag Cafe," this lively
24-hour gathering spot draws from all walks of life - from chic lesbians
to seasoned ACT UP queer activists to progressive straight folks with
toddlers. The food here is better and healthier than Sparky's, the
Castro's other post-disco nosh pit. Try the fried chicken, followed by
moist carrot cake. The portions are huge.
Beauty's, Montreal, Quebec
A delightful Jewish diner and deli that's been going strong since World
War II, Beauty's is beautiful for many reasons - the colorful,
multigenerational and multicultural clientele that includes everyone
from glamorous celebs to working-class joes; the comfy booths and
stainless-steel counter; and the delicious food. Consider the challah
French toast, chocolate-chip pancakes, a bagel topped with cream cheese
and lox, or an omelet packed with bits of hot dog, salami, and fried
onions. That last item may sound a bit odd, but it's surprisingly tasty.
Cap City Diner, Columbus, Ohio
In the Grandview neighborhood, a 10-minute drive west of downtown, this
snazzy spot serves innovative food and has a fun vibe. It's part of the
estimable Cameron Mitchell restaurant empire, which is well-regarded
throughout this city with a sizable LGBT community. Cap City is a
stylish, modern take on the classic diner, with trendy decor and
fantastic food, including a knockout meatloaf with
buttermilk-chive-mashed potatoes.
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