Costa Rica is one of the Western Hemisphere's
top travel bargains. Rooms at even the fanciest
properties rarely cost more than $200 nightly,
and quite pleasing accommodations can be secured
at a number of hotels, inns, and guest houses
for between $40 and $80 per night. Dinner at a
nice restaurant costs from $15 to $30 per
person, and most other goods and services cost
less than they do in North America and Europe.
Many but not all businesses in tourism-driven
areas accept credit cards, and virtually all
businesses in Costa Rica accept both U.S. and
Costa Rican cash.
Direct flights to Costa Rica's main airport,
just outside San Jose, are available on most
major U.S. carriers - flying time from Houston,
Dallas, Atlanta, or Miami is about three to four
hours.
Of the several guidebooks about the country,
Moon Handbooks Costa Rica, by Christopher P.
Baker, is easily the most informative and
well-written, and it includes sections on the
gay scenes in San Jose and Quepos.
10 Days in Costa Rica
Page 3 of 3
At Manuel Antonio National Park and the adjacent beach, there's great
nature-watching - you'll sometimes spy playful white-faced monkeys
cavorting in the trees just behind the sand. There's also a section of
beach that's particularly popular with gay sun-bunnies - it's a little
hard to find this section, which becomes inaccessible for a couple of
hours at high tide each day, but any local can give you directions.
You'll usually find plenty of gay folks along the main beach, too.
There are a handful of excellent restaurants along the main road, most
within walking distance of the gay hotels. These include Barba Roja and
Bambujam, which both serve creative and contemporary seafood, and Aqua
Azul, a casual, open-air bar and cafe with great burgers and mahimahi
sandwiches. After dining, plan to have drinks and watch the sunset at
the rooftop Tutu bar, which draws a largely gay crowd. Or for serious
dancing, head down the road into the town of Quepos, where the Arco Iris
disco pulses into the wee hours and attracts a mixed, although mostly
hetero, bunch.
Days 9 and 10: Central Highlands
On your ninth day, drive back up the coast from Quepos and ascend the
winding but scenic highway into the Central Highlands region, just west
of San Jose. Here the air is crisper and cooler than down along the
coast, as the attractive hill towns west of San Jose rise to elevations
of 3,000 to 4,000 feet. Attractions include Zoo Ave (a wonderful animal
preserve where injured or abandoned animals are rehabilitated), La
Guacima Butterfly Farm, Irazu Volcano crater lake, and Poas Volcano.
An
excellent place to spend your final night (or even two nights) is Vista
del Valle, a luxurious small inn perched awesomely on the edge of
spectacular Rio Grande Canyon. Mainstream but gay-friendly, Vista del
Valle has economy-minded rooms in the main house as well as a series of
fancier, self-contained cottages set along a network of meandering
pathways - most have private decks overlooking the canyon. In the
evening, the inn serves a commendable fixed-price dinner in its open-air
dining room, which is cantilevered over the edge of the canyon.
A more economical but still thoroughly appealing alternative is Pura
Vida Bed and Breakfast, just north of the San Jose suburb of Alajuela, a
10-minute drive from the airport. This relaxing former coffee-farmhouse
has seven elegantly furnished rooms and sits amid fragrant gardens;
several larger units have kitchens, fireplaces, and patios. The owners
are tremendously helpful and offer excellent advice on touring nearby
attractions.
Both of these are such lovely properties that you may feel inspired to
postpone your return flight home and hang around for a few more days,
soaking up the fresh air and endearing personality of this charmed
country.
Andrew Collins is the
author of Fodor's Gay Guide to the USA and as well as numerous other
guidebooks