Detroit has done a terrific job in recent years remaking its image, which
suffered through shaky economic times during the latter half of the 20th
century. Word is gradually spreading that America's 11th largest city
(population 880,000) rivals many of the nation's top destinations when
it comes to museums, the performing arts, and professional sports. In
the Midwest, only Chicago has a better-endowed cultural scene. And with
hotel rates and restaurant prices lower than in other large U.S. cities,
Detroit's many strengths make it an excellent destination for a long
weekend.
Even if you don't come to museum-hop or attend the opera, consider
Detroit's lively gay nightlife scene. Visitors are often surprised by
the vitality and the variety. Racially, Detroit has one of the most
integrated gay bar scenes in the country - not surprising since the city
has a longstanding African-American heritage and the largest NAACP
membership in America. Detroit is also a big sports city, and bowling on
Sundays is a weekly ritual for many in the gay community: There are two
main gay leagues, one that plays at Clover Lanes, the other at Fairlanes.
These two leagues always meet on Sunday afternoons from noon to 3, and
visitors are welcome to participate.
Going Downtown
Whatever your agenda, plan to spend some time exploring downtown. Here
the five shiny black cylindrical towers of the GM Renaissance Center
have been a fixture of the city skyline since 1968. The complex's
73-story main tower has an observation deck with commanding views. Most
of the rest of the building contains the upscale Marriott Detroit at
Renaissance Center, whose handsomely furnished rooms offer panoramic
views of the city - this is the place to stay if you're seeking a great
central location and a bit of glamour. On the 72nd floor of this iconic
building, you can dine at Coach Insignia, a swanky restaurant serving
hefty, old-school steaks and seafood. Also in the RenCen, you can savor
creative contemporary American fare while tapping your toes to superb
live jazz at Seldom Blues. Another terrific dining option downtown is
Opus One, set inside a former taxi garage built by Louis Kahn in 1916.
With stunning glass sculptures inside, including the largest piece of
glass art in the Midwest, this long-established Detroit culinary
institution serves some of the most innovative food in town.
There are a handful of mid- to luxury-priced hotels in this
neighborhood. The sleek Atheneum Suite Hotel is a particularly good
option. This converted warehouse has spacious rooms that open around a
central atrium; each suite is outfitted with a large sitting area, two
TVs, and a marble bathroom (and, in many cases, a big hot tub). It's
right by the city's lively Greektown, whose commercial spine - Monroe
Street - is lined with tavernas, such as the always-packed New Hellas,
where you can dine on delicious saganaki, lamb chops, and moussaka. You
can also test your luck gambling inside the Greektown Casino.
Walk along downtown's main drag, Woodward Avenue, and you'll come upon a
stellar theater district, a highlight of which is the 1927 Fox Theatre,
a fantastically elaborate C. Howard Crane creation whose Arabian
tent-inspired design incorporates Siamese, Byzantine, and Chinese
elements. Within walking distance is the Bonstelle Theatre, where Lily
Tomlin got her start, and Orchestra Hall at the Max M. Fisher Music
Center, home of the Detroit Symphony. Also note the Detroit Opera House,
which boasts one of the world's largest stages, and the historic Music
Hall Center for the Performing Arts. Continue to page
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The Hunk
