San Antonio
has become decidedly more swank and sophisticated from a culinary
perspective. Biga on the Banks earns praise for serving some of the finest
contemporary American fare in Texas, including a mouthwatering venison
with juniper sauce, goat-cheese strudel, frisee-gooseberry salad, and
chili jam. A number of hip lounges and restaurants have popped up along
Houston Street, including the much-talked-about Acenar, a sensuous, modern
space overlooking the River Walk and presenting creative renditions of
Tex-Mex cuisine.
Also on the river, Paesanos is a terrific Northern Italian trattoria, and
it's one of the relatively few spots in this area that draws as many
locals as tourists. In Southtown, Azuca is an airy space decorated with
colorful glass art (blown next door at Garcia Glass studio) and serving
terrific Nuevo Latino fare, from ceviche to caramelized pork loin with
mashed sweet yams and a caipirinha glaze. There's live Latin music and
dancing many evenings.
One of the most famous Mexican restaurants in Texas, La Fogata is worth
the 15-minute drive north of downtown for its authentic cooking. In
Southtown, Rosario's, a loud and spacious joint with live music on
weekends, offers such tasty Mexican recipes as chicken with pumpkin mole
sauce. A funky dive that's perfect when you have a fast-food craving, Pig
Stand opened in 1921 and claims to be America's first drive-in restaurant.
It turns out amazingly good chicken-fried steak, thick malted milkshakes,
and breakfast any time of day.
The historic Liberty Bar was a German-style beer garden for much of this
century. These days, gay and straight locals drop by to mingle at the bar
or nosh on pear and Stilton salad, peppered tenderloin, and traditional
Mexican favorites. A longtime staple of the gay community, W. D. Deli is a
cheerful spot with the best chicken tortilla soup around, and healthy
sandwiches (try the turkey-avocado wrap) and salads.
Candlelight Coffeehouse is the perfect blend of a wine bar, cafe, and
rainy-day hangout. In good weather enjoy the lushly landscaped patio. In
the King William District, Madhatters draws a "who's who" of local
characters for coffee, beer, wine, conversation, and great food. And north
of downtown near several of the city's gay bars, Timo's is a relatively
new gay-owned coffeehouse serving tasty sandwiches, fresh smoothies, and
leafy salads in addition to the usual coffees and teas. Continue to page
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The Hunk
