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San Antonio


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San Antonio
Flourishing and Artsy Gay Scene
By Andrew Collins

The most-visited city in the state, San Antonio in many ways embodies the quintessential Texas spirit that outsiders seek but never seem to find in Austin, Dallas, and Houston. There's also a flourishing arts scene, a sizable if somewhat inconspicuous gay community, and plenty of sophisticated restaurants and elegant hotels. Granted, this generally conservative city has no shortage of schmaltzy family attractions, raucous theme parks, touristy dance halls, and rowdy bars and chain restaurants. But with its rich history and engaging cultural attractions, San Antonio makes for a delightful long-weekend getaway.

The city's downtown has been carefully protected by a zealous spirit of historic preservation. At the turn of the century, concerned local citizens fought developers bent on converting the Alamo into a hotel. Similar efforts led to the restoration of the city's other iconic landmark, the San Antonio River, with its enchanting River Walk.

Only a fraction of the original Spanish Colonial mission known popularly as the Alamo stands today: the small chapel whose facade has come to symbolize the pride and independence of Texas, and one of the living quarters. The buildings are set within a tranquil walled plaza of lawns and gardens. It's one of five missions built along the San Antonio River during the 18th century. The other four, which are south of downtown within 6 miles of one another, have been preserved and are open to the public. Stop by the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park for details.

Steps from the Alamo you'll find the fabled River Walk, a network of cobbled and flagstone paths hugging the San Antonio River some 15 feet below street level. The branches of cypress and willow trees droop over the walk. During the day it makes for a peaceful stroll, and river taxis offer tours that provide an excellent sense of the architecture and greenery.

At the far northeastern edge of downtown, about a 15-minute walk from the Alamo, you'll find the San Antonio Museum of Art, which inhabits the former Lone Star brewery and is famous for its Asian works and arguably the nation's premier collection of Latin American art. A few blocks south of downtown, HemisFair Park contains the remnants of the 1968 World's Fair attractions, including the 750-foot Tower of the Americas and several museums. Be sure to check out La Villita, a nearby complex of more than two dozen arts and crafts shops. Continue south to reach the King William Historic District, where many of San Antonio's early German immigrants settled and built elaborate Victorian mansions. It's adjacent to the more modest but increasingly hip Southtown area, which buzzes with funky shops, galleries, and restaurants.

If you have time to explore farther afield, consider checking out some of the notable attractions outside of downtown, such as the San Antonio Botanical Gardens, the Japanese Tea Gardens, the San Antonio Zoological Gardens and Aquarium, and the McNay Art Museum. And on the city's true outskirts, there's fun to be had at Schlitterbahn Waterpark, Seaworld of Texas, and Six Flags Fiesta Texas.
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