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A Key West Resorts Round-Up

Key West is one of the world's favorite gay retreats, especially among travelers looking to spend a week or two at a self- contained, gay- exclusive resort. There are only three other places in the United States that offer such an abundance of gay-oriented accommodations - Provincetown, Palm Springs, and Fort Lauderdale. Compared to these, Key West stands out because it's warm and sunny year-round, most of its gay resorts occupy vintage buildings in a quaint historic district, and virtually all of them lie within an easy walk of restaurants and gay bars.

This tiny island just 100 miles north of Havana, Cuba, is known for its clothing- optional - in some cases rather racy - retreats. One of these places caters to lesbians, another to gay men and lesbians, and the rest to gay men. This column focuses chiefly on gay-oriented properties, but keep in mind that Key West also has a number of lodgings - from inns to full-service resorts to tiny B&Bs - that welcome both gays and straights.

The resorts mentioned below charge the highest rates during the winter high season (roughly mid-November through mid-April), at which time the most basic units, at most properties, begin around $100 to $120 per night. Luxury suites can run as high as $300 nightly or more. Most of properties offer a wide range of rates, depending on room size, amenities, and location relative to the pool or sundecks.

Here's a round-up of some of Key West's most alluring gay accommodations:

Alexander's 
This long-popular gay resort has the relatively unusual policy of being both clothing-optional and of welcoming women and men alike. This makes Alexander's ideal for gay guys traveling with lesbian friends, or for any queer vacationers who enjoy a mixed-gender atmosphere. The effect is that the mood around the pool and hot tub tends to be less cruisy than at single-gender resorts. Aromatic tropical flowers, sundecks, rattan and wicker furnishings, and sparkling tiled bathrooms impart Alexander's with a classy but casual look. The main 1910 house has been flawlessly restored, and several newer units have been added on over the years. A few rooms have romantic private verandahs.

Atlantic Shores Resort 
Site of the popular oceanfront bar-and-grill of the same name, the art deco-inspired Atlantic Shores differs considerably from other gay properties in town: It's a motel-style lodging with 72 units facing a landscaped parking lot. It's a bit of a walk from the Historic District but just off Duval Street, the heart of Key West's dining and nightlife; also, straights are quite welcome here, as long as they're cool with the tres gay ambience. Although rooms aren't set around a private pool area, they're just steps from the outdoor bar and grill, whose amenities include a big pool and a long wooden pier jutting into the sea. Hotel guests, but also folks from all over town, flock to this clothing-optional hangout all day, and especially at dusk, when the pier affords outstanding sunset views. The rooms themselves have a standard motel layout, made more cheerful by attractive furniture and festive color schemes; many have refrigerators, microwaves, and coffeemakers. Devotees of the Atlantic Shores appreciate the fact that you can stay here and never feel forced to meet another guest, but you also have the option of being social at the bar and grill.

Big Ruby's 
This resort, though less than a block from Duval Street, is hidden behind high walls from noise and street traffic. The grounds feature towering palm trees and fragrant flowers, an abundance of sundecks, and an outdoor shower large enough for two. Rooms are warm, contemporary, spotless, and full of light - all have TV/VCRs, mini-refrigerators, A/C, and ceiling fans. A complimentary full-cooked breakfast is included in the rates. As for the staff, you won't find a more professional bunch of guys in Key West.

Coconut Grove 
Next door to the Oasis (see below), this highly social, all-male compound comprises three buildings with rooms available in a variety of configurations, accommodating from one to six guests. This is one of the latest properties to undergo a full (and much-needed) renovation, and its rooms now look better than ever, with updated furnishings and cheerful yet tasteful color schemes. Amenities include a large pool and hot tub, and the rates are quite reasonable. The roof deck is one of the highest points in the Historic District (which means that you can sometimes ogle cute guys at neighboring properties).

Equator 
A recently built gay resort along Fleming Street (the Historic District's main drag), Equator has unusually plush rooms with contemporary Caribbean- influenced furniture. Designer fabrics, feather pillows with comforters, Mediterranean-tile floors, large closets, phones with voice mail and data ports, and strong sound insulation add to the comfort of each unit. Some have wet bars, French doors, cathedral ceilings, and double whirlpool tubs. The tradeoff is that the Equator's grounds, although nicely landscaped, are smaller than at some of its competitors; there's a compact pool and an oversize Jacuzzi tub. This is a great choice if you plan to spend more time in your room than around the pool but still want the camaraderie and occasional cruisiness of a gay-male resort.

Fleur de Keys 
This cozy, beautiful compound, formerly known as the Brass Key, consists of two immaculate clapboard buildings and offers perhaps the classiest gay-resort experience on the island - the place feels like a tiny Ritz-Carlton (indeed, the previous owner worked for the Ritz chain for many years). Rooms have sumptuous high-thread-count linens, Crabtree & Evelyn and Caswell-Massey bath amenities, bathrooms with massage showerheads, phones with data ports and voice mail, seersucker bathrobes, TV/VCRs, and - in some cases - Bose CD stereos. The solicitous staff tends effortlessly to every guest's needs and keeps the place in tip-top shape, and a lavish breakfast buffet and early evening cocktail hour are included.

Island House 
For years this sprawling spread - a former cigar factory - on the eastern edge of the Historic District was synonymous with sex, sleaze, shabbiness, and surliness. It's still synonymous with sex. But, happily, new owners have completely rebuilt the place, hired friendly and competent staff, and created lovely rooms with high-quality furnishings (all have VCR/TVs, direct-dial phones with data ports, refrigerators, safes, and plush linens; some have microwaves). If you're seeking a steamy ambience but also first-rate accommodations and a safe, friendly environment, the Island House is your dream come true. Amenities, all of them available 24 hours, include a heated pool, indoor and outdoor Jacuzzis, gym, sauna, steam room, and an erotic-male-video lounge. A bar serves cocktails during the day and evening - a highlight being the complimentary happy hour each night, where guests get to mingle and perhaps figure out who they hope to bump into in the video lounge later that evening. 

The Oasis and Coral Tree Inn 
These historic buildings sit across from each other on Fleming Street and provide quite different settings, yet similar social experiences. Regardless of which property you stay in, you're welcome to use the extensive grounds of the other. If it's a more romantic, sophisticated space you want, book a room in the century-old Coral Tree, whose 11 units have rich fabrics, both reproduction and original antiques, and the feel of a small, upscale hotel. Social butterflies might prefer one of the 20 rooms at the Oasis, which are less formal but still warmly appointed. Many Oasis units overlook the large pool and 24-man Jacuzzi, and you'll find more public areas for socializing at this property. Both places offer clothing-optional pool areas and are staffed by the same easy-going but highly professional guys - it's just a matter of deciding which house suits your exact style. Arguably, after the Island House, the Oasis is the most sexually playful of Key West's resorts.

Pearl's Rainbow 
Known as the Rainbow House until new owners took over a couple of years ago, this sprawling 38-room resort is Key West's only lesbian-exclusive accommodation. Prior to the change in ownership, the Rainbow's quality had begun to slip a little, so the recent improvements have been well-received. The rooms are being renovated with new rattan and wicker furniture, freshly painted pastel-hued walls, large TVs, and refrigerators. Many configurations are available, from simple budget-oriented units set away from the noise of the pools and decks, to more spacious rooms closer to the action, some with kitchenettes or separate sitting areas. The resort encompasses several buildings, including some cute cottages that once provided housing for the workers of a cigar factory that formerly occupied the main building. There are two heated pools, a poolside bar and grill, spacious sundecks, and lots of opportunity to chat with other guests. This is a wonderful hideaway, whether you're looking to make new friends or enjoy a little peace and quiet with your honey.